06.28.07
how does the serious tea drinker handle travel?
posted by Regena Rafelson | 17 comments
Imagine this: you are serious about drinking tea. You drink loose leaf tea, you take care to heat water carefully, steep carefully, and sip carefully. How do you preserve and continue to enjoy this essential habit when you are traveling?
Recently, I attended the National Forensic League’s Speech and Debate Tournament in Wichita, Kansas. Staying in a Holiday Inn, having daily responsibilities to judge competitive speakers and chaperone groups of very bright teenagers, I found myself faced with the dilemma of enjoying tea on the road. I brought Oolong tea bags with me, and found restaurants very willing to give me hot water.
The resulting brew was a far cry from the daily pot of Frozen Peaks Oolong I have grown to adore.
I launched a Google Search for specialty tea shops in Wichita. No hits. I scanned the Yellow Pages. No help there, either. Finally, I e-mailed the helpful folks at T Ching, who directed me to a website which lists tea shops by city and state. Wichita has two! Imagine my delight! Just one problem, though: neither enterprise opens until 11:00 A.M., and both require a reservation. A reservation for a cup of tea? I made a reservation for the first one, Victoria’s Tea House. I was asked if I wanted “high tea.”
“I prefer my tea sober. I do have to drive back to the hotel.”
“Lunch, then?” The date was made, and I looked forward to my visit. I arrived a few minutes before the designated time at a modest Victorian-style home with tables covered in lace tablecloths, lace curtains over the windows, and each chair covered with a damask-draped cushion. Victorian-era antique china-hutches and wardrobes graced each room. Thoughtful placement of mirrors made the small rooms less confining. My table faced a painted motto, “A balanced diet is a cookie in each hand.” Soon, a menu was brought to me, and I eagerly looked over the tea list: five loose leaf teas, all black. An equal number of tea bags were available; and several herb “teas.”
Reading the descriptions about the loose teas, I was reminded of wine: “a full-bodied black tea with subtle hints of bergamot;” for the first offering, a tea called “Paris.” Was the name chosen for the city, or for the lad who started the Trojan War? The tea was served in a traditional English cup with a saucer and infuser spoon. It was delicious, even though I am not a fan of black or flavored teas. The lunch offerings included two choices of quiche, two sandwich choices, salads, and traditional English tea breads. I ordered a sandwich, which was served with a salad, a slice of moist, sweet bread, and strawberry ice cream. Hearty, delicious . . . I concluded that Victoria’s is a lunch place that serves tea. Talking to the owner afterward, I learned that her real love is the traditional English 4:00 o’clock tea, emphasizing proper etiquette. Ah, ha! That’s what “high tea” is!
The second tea house in Wichita, “Riverside Cup of Tea,” is located several minutes away in a lovely old neighborhood. Also serving a traditional English 4 o’clock tea, this establishment is remarkable for its retail nature: one first sees a cash register and several score tins of “People’s Republic of Tea.” Lovely china tea cups and accessories are arranged for sale. The tea list is almost identical to Victoria’s, except that two flavored loose leaf green teas are available along with five black teas. The first question from the hostess was, “How many for lunch?”
Both of Wichita’s “tea houses” offer high quality black teas, served in the English tradition. Nevertheless, they were not what I imagined a tea house to be.
Is the traditional 4 o’clock tea, served with watercress sandwiches and seven different jam cakes and scones what we should expect when we see an advertisement for a “Tea House?” Is wanting a “Tea House” to be primarily about savoring a cup of tea an impractical expectation? Does the emphasis on proper etiquette need to trump the tea itself? Is there a place for tea drinkers, like myself, who want to stick our noses into a cup of tea - cradled in both hands - as we sit in comfortable chairs, perhaps indulging in a cookie as we sip the second cup? Or, is the comfortable, relaxed cup of tea something one can only achieve at home?
June 28th, 2007 at 10:50 am
The tea industry is going through some adolescent growing pains in the USA. And indeed there are some powerfully different perspectives on the rituals of tea drinking across America. I suspect there’s a market for both Eastern and Western-style tea rooms across the nation. Soon, I suspect there will be vast changes which may well make your travels more comfortable. It is not sheer fantasy to assume that the Holiday Inn chain may start to offer a broader selection of teas* along with a efficient electric water kettle in every room so you can make yourself a soothing cup of tea.
But until those changes happen, you may wish to invest in some of the available sachets in which you can stash your own favorite stash of loose leaf teas. Then all you’ll have to locate is hot water (at the proper temperature, which may be no small feat) to have a thoroughly satisfying tea experience. Let’s just hope that stash doesn’t get picked up by the airport security detail and mistaken for contraband.
I’ve been surprised and delighted to see that in the Philadelphia area, a successful convenience store chain called WaWa - which in the past had introducted at least eight different types of coffee for it’s customers - has recently introduced about five different custom-labelled tea bags at the beverage station including jasmine green, earl grey, and oolong.]
June 28th, 2007 at 3:09 pm
If space permits, I’d bring a traveling size bamboo tea tray, a small gaiwan (lidded bowl), two small cups and a small electric kettle. I guess I am not a light traveller.
How do you brew your Frozen Peak Oolong (tea bags?) at home that resulted in a much better tasting tea than with the restaurants’ hot water and tea utensils…if I may ask?
June 28th, 2007 at 4:04 pm
I’m amazed how many interesting and thought-provoking articles T Ching churns out!
Regena, your article is indeed indicative of many regions in the world not just the U.S. Here in New Zealand, so-called “Tea Rooms” have a long tradition. As a tea drinker you might be tempted to visit one of these establishments if you’re not familiar with the term (they have big advertisements along the highway advertising a “free cup of tea”). Well, they don’t have anything to do with tea, really, but are places for a sandwich or light meal when you are traveling.
When we opened our teahouse about a year ago, people were confused when our offerings consisted almost exclusively of TEA (you would think the name would be a give-away!). I believe if we offered “high tea” as the tea houses you visited, New Zealanders (as a people of British ancestry) would be much more familiar with our concept.
Eric, I’m not quite sure whether I share your vision of a bright future where (high quality) tea and all necessary utensils will be ubiquitous (although every Motel in New Zealand offers a range of different teabags as well as a kettle). I’m afraid that Western culture is far too focussed on convenience and speed to allow the time for proper tea appreciation.
Phyll, your way of travel is exactly the way I expected you to travel (amongst many other people, me included). I travel a little lighter by leaving the kettle at home (so far I could always organize hot water), but the other utensils are in my luggage. Along, of course, with some tea since this is really the one thing that is almost impossible to organize in a decent quality if you are traveling in an unfamiliar area (unless you travel in a tea-growing region, of course).
So, if you ever find yourself in New Zealand (more specifically in Christchurch) and in need of a decent pot of tea, make sure you drop in at our teahouse (and stay out of the tea rooms unless you’re after a light lunch).
June 28th, 2007 at 4:08 pm
BTW, I love the picture on the front page of the mountaineer holding a cup of tea. Whenever I go out in the beautiful Southern Alps in the winter, I bring a thermos of hot tea.
My climbing partners now ask me: “You didn’t forget the thermos, did you?”
June 28th, 2007 at 5:36 pm
Oh yeah, the tea! Yes, I’d take with me one or two small canisters of tea. I like taking fisted oolongs with me as the leaves don’t break even when the canisters shake and roll in my backpack, and there is a lot of tea in such a small efficient size. I rarely travel with compressed pu’er, even though they also come in convenient shapes and sizes for traveling.
Thanks for reminding, Jo!
June 28th, 2007 at 5:44 pm
Michelle and I have a small (and quite adorable if I may say so myself) travel set of a gaiwan, pouring pitcher and 6 cups that come in a zippered nylon case that we take with us on our travels. It’s great for our own teas as well as sampling new teas and providing tastes for people we may meet along the way. We also have another small travel basket that contains a tea bowl along with all of the necessary accoutrement for preparing matcha on the go. Ain’t life grand!
June 28th, 2007 at 6:48 pm
BTW Regena, what most people mistakenly call “high tea” is actually “low tea”. High tea is a more robust evening meal than an afternoon snack. It’s always surprising to me that even alleged “knowledgeable” teashop owners call their afternoon tea “high tea”.
June 28th, 2007 at 7:53 pm
Thank you, Phyll, for pointing out a confusing bit in my post: the Frozen Peaks Oolong I brew at home is NOT from tea bags. Being a recent convert to tea, my trip to Kansas was my first foray since conversion. I took a few tea bags with me, thinking they would be satisfactory. Ha, ha, ha. I’ve learned my lesson! I’ll use either your packing list, or Sandy’s next time I leave town. . . and I will be sure to bring the tea, too.
June 28th, 2007 at 8:22 pm
Oh, it was my bad reading skills, Regena. Another solution is to bring along Sandy, Michelle, Jo or me on your travels.
June 28th, 2007 at 9:48 pm
Now this is what T-Ching is all about education, exploration and fun comments with humor. (Phyll)
Shared by all. It surprises me that Norwood didn’t chime in here with something pithy.
Thanks a lot people this is enjoyable along with being educational…PJF
June 29th, 2007 at 12:22 am
No, No, High Tea is NOT the traditional 4pm English Tea. It’s a little embarrassing, actually, that a tea room owner doesn’t realize this. It’s confusing, but I have an explanation for the difference between High Tea and Afternoon Tea on my website for those interested in the Western traditions.
I loved your answer though, can I use it?
June 29th, 2007 at 12:36 am
a very nice article. thanks for sharing it with all of us. i am of the same opinion of the photo with Jo. it simply is awesome - i really like everyting about it.
June 29th, 2007 at 10:10 am
What a different world of tea in China & USA. We tea producing and sourcing people get the real picture of mindset working here in USA.
Thanks Sandy
July 3rd, 2007 at 11:48 pm
Great looking sandwich!!! Yum!!
July 5th, 2007 at 9:13 am
A few clarifications about Victoria’s Tea Room in Wichita KS.
Victoria’s is a tea room, not a tea house.
Afternoon tea, not high tea, is served 2-4p.m.
As a part-time employee of Victoria’s Tea Room, we meet people with very little experience with tea drinking as well as those, like Regena, with much more experience. We take time with the newcomers to discuss loose leaf teas, explain tea strainers, and encourage them to try a real tea as opposed to just a fruity herbal ‘tea.’ Many just ask for ’something like Lipton’ and are delighted with a fresh cup of properly steeped tea. Yes, the tea room is mostly frequented by customers for lunch with a cup of tea, but many people stop in for a pot of tea with a bit of fresh zucchini bread and stay and read a book.
Regena, thanks for stopping by while in Wichita. I hope you had a pleasant lunch and cup of tea. I, too, travel with a selection of my favorite teas and love finding tea shops and tea rooms where I always experience something new and exciting. I have observed that tea traditions and experiences are different in rural and urban settings and different parts of the country. A tea room owner in Estes Park, Colorado told me that tea drinking is totally different west of the Rocky Mountains…..and changing.
I enjoyed reading of others’ tea and travel experiences and I look forward to expanding my own experiences.
July 18th, 2007 at 11:34 am
Wherever you travel good tea will find you.
September 25th, 2007 at 4:00 pm
Regena,
I posted on your most recent offering “You Get What You Pay For” earlier today and I think that readers from your Blog would possbily like to cross reference back to there for comments I left about my travel tea experiences and bringing my own tea and tea set along with me. I’m glad that you found places to give you hot water even if the brew wasn’t exactly adequate. Have you tried those empty tea bags that you can fill yourself with your favorite loose leaf? That won’t help with water situations (i.e. temperature and usually the fact that most restrauants will just boil local tap water with the chlorine and fluoride in all its glory) but it might be a good alternative to carrying lots of stuff with you. I do enjoy your blogs, keep them coming. If you ever get to Cincinnati, that city is fortunate enough to have TWO tea shops on the same street (located about 5-7 miles apart from each other in different neighborhoods but still on the same road) which are totally different in character. One (which closes at 5:30 PM usual timing) specializes in the classical European High Tea type of service as well as the lunch type as you described so well above. The other is the newest of the two and they specialize in a more Asian flavor in both menu and items offered in the store, no surprise as there is far less competition when you find a niche market that wasn’t being served before. I’ve been in both, both are very nice and cozy but I prefer the Asian ambience (personal taste) even though I of standard Irish/German Cincinnati ethnic makeup. In short, doing as you did was perfect. Trying the internet (if the hotel where you are staying has hookups and most today do) or even asking at the desk may possibly yield a positive result. Of course, you have to always be ready for getting something that you weren’t quite expecting. Best bet for knowing that you have YOUR particular favorite variety, especially if you aren’t real adventuresome is to bring your own equipment and brew it in the hotel room. A stainless steel thermos can also be of use to keep water hot enough to make more tea if you bring your cup and bags/infuser along with you to the meetings.
Keep on drinking GOOD LOOSE LEAF TEAS!!
Patrick a.k.a. kinghazzah