Monday December 10, 2012 | 13 comments
This past August I was honored to be invited to participate in the annual Hong Kong International Tea Fair as both a presenter and a judge in the International Tea Competition. Organized by the Hong Kong Trade Development Corporation, the event was a three-day bonanza of tea, teaware, and tea information from all over the world. Well-known figures from the areas of production, research, marketing, and promotion presented lectures and informative briefings for the attendees. Secretary General Mr. Cai Jun from the China Chamber of Commerce (Tea Section) spoke on production data and the rapidly developing domestic Chinese tea market. Dr. Lu Cheng Yin from the Tea Research Institute in Hangzhou, China presented information on the technical aspects of tea and research that is being done. Mr. Rahul Kale from Typhoo Tea Ltd. UK addressed the conference on the many facets of developing a successful brand, and I was pleased to offer perspectives on the American tea market.
Vendors from across the various Pacific-Asian countries, including India and Sri Lanka, were on hand to spread their messages to all interested visitors to their booths. There were quite a number of exhibitors touting the benefits and varieties of Pu Er as well as other famous teas.
The day before the Fair itself, a panel of distinguished tea figures was called to duty to taste, evaluate, and score nearly 90 teas that were entered in the International Tea Competition. Delegates included Mrs. Rupali Datta from the Tea Board of India, Ms. Priyanka Liyange from the Sri Lankan Tea Board, Dr. Lu Cheng Yin from the Tea Research Intstitute, Mr. Wing Chi Ip from Lok Cha in Hong Kong, Mr. Wang Ya Lei from the China Tea Association in Japan, Ms. Charlene Tse, a renowned Hong Kong food critic, Mr. Ng Tin Sang from the Chinese Tea Culture Exchange Association, and me. It was an entire day of tea tasting and we had the opportunity to evaluate an extensive array of amazing teas.
The procedures we followed were the typical ones used in Chinese competitions. Using a mark of around 84 as the starting point, an initial score was given by the lead judge for each category. The other judges followed and either added or subtracted from the initial score. After all teas had been judged, the pluses and minuses were calculated and the final score was established. Typical tea-preparation methods were used, although there were modifications for green teas and Pu Er teas. In general, the procedure called for 3 grams of tea, steeped in 110 ml of 210 degree water for 5 minutes. Teas were judged on leaf appearance, aroma, and taste. High scores reached into the mid-90s, while lower scores bottomed out in the high-60s. At the end, an overall “best-tasting tea” winner was selected – an excellent oolong tea called Mi Lan Xiang Dan Cong (Honey Orchid Fragrance Dan Cong) made by Mr. Huang Shuwei.
I was honored to be asked to serve as lead judge for both the oolong and black tea categories. While tea tasting is a regular part of my duties with both The Tea House and the International Tea Cuppers Club, it was indeed a pleasure to experience so many exceptional teas at one time. I do hope they invite me to participate again next year.
Congratulation Rajiv. I missed the event very much!
I missed the event too – Ashis da – Dan is a great judge…
Yes, quite an honor. Can you remember the brewing requirements for green tea – even though you didn’t judge those? I’m always curious to hear what the experts use when taste testing my favorite teas. Water temperature is so variable for green tea.
Thanks Michelle: I was also a judge for green teas but not the lead judge. Brewing method was the same for greens, oolongs and blacks. For most consumers the infusion would not be enjoyable but as a tea taster / judge, we are used to these methods which also bring out strengths as well as deficiencies. Some of the judges were not used to the fermented teas though. I had fun trying to explain to some of my collegues that mold on these teas was a good thing. It is quite a benefit to be not so immersed in teas from one culture. As a Westerner (and tea buyer) I get a chance to experience and understand teas from all over the world. Maybe Westerners can be more objective?
VERY interesting. I do understand the appeal of pushing the limits to assess strengths and weaknesses but a green tea brewed with boiling water and steeped for 5 minutes – how can you possible enjoy such a tea? Isn’t it equally important, when judging a tea, to drink the tea at its best?
Out of all the judges you were the only bi-lingual judge knowing the intricacies of all the teas deeply – whereas others were mostly judges because of the chairs they were occupying – I have seen your capabilities in judging teas in many waters and many teas and many regions…all the best Dan..I personally wish to see you more in these places..
Now that’s high praise indeed!
Thanks for your confidence in me Rajiv. It is my pleasure to participate and share what little I know. I learn from the real pros like you sir. Michelle, perhaps people are unfamiliar with this method. “Enjoying” the teas as a consumer would, is not necessarily part of judging or particularly tasting teas. Our goal is to evaluate the tea. With so many teas, it is not really possible to take the time to enjoy each of the samples. However, a tea taster’s palate is able to destinguish what “will” be an enjoyable tea when brewed using different methods. Do remember that Western and Chinese tea drinkers will brew the same tea very differently. Even within a culture, people prefer different methods. Some Japanese love thier tea scalding hot while others prefer the nuances of a lower temperature infusion. I think I shall write a post on this soon, what do you think?
What fascinating information Dan. I had always assumed that the”best tea” was the best tasting tea. You make an excellent point about different cultures and regions having different taste and brewing preferences. In my mind however I never considered this among judges. I had thought the goal was to discover the most delicious tea in that category. Live and learn. I’d be curious to hear if anyone else in the tea industry thought similarly to me.
Yes Dan – that would make a terrific next post. Excellent suggestion.
I remember taking one good Darjeeling from J Thomas in Calcutta and tasting it in Assam and Darjeeling water and then realising the difference – this was Dan’s idea during his last October trip to India – I personally carry a Margaret’s Hope wherever I go and keep registering the difference – most notable ones in Chinese cities where water quality is so different – this helps in adjusting our marketing skills in selection of teas for different people…
I like the idea of having a “benchmark” tea you keep with you on travels to be able to try with different qualities of water. Will remember to start doing this more often. I know in the Northeast U.S. we are blessed to usually have good water quality/mineral content for tea. In the midwest, some teas take on a totally different character due to the water. Sometimes a bit “flat” tasting, if that makes sense.
Thanks Guy..as the water is the mother of tea and the pot is the father of tea..we must attune them to our body, soul and mind and that is the essence of tea culture – a common site of a Chinese carrying his glass jar full of “his” tea is his lifeline and maybe his life “manta”…