Part 2 of a two-part series.

To me the abiding mystery about Earl Grey tea is – why on earth is it so popular?  It seems like a nice enough tea, one which has its place and gives its pleasure too, but just what makes it an international best-seller?  Is it because Earl Grey was the first scented tea drunk in the West?  Certainly its popularity here parallels that of jasmine-scented tea in Asia; jasmine tea is the Earl Grey of northern China.

J.P. Morgan, as recent biographies remind us, was not just a great financier but a great connoisseur of art and books who cherished peace and quiet – and tea.  There was a tea firm which Mr. Morgan passed each day near his offices.  Inside he always saw the same taster at work, “sipping, spitting and looking wise,” as it’s been described.  After many years of this nodding acquaintance, he ventured in to ask this professional to appraise his personal blend.  He left, the story goes, visibly agitated and exclaiming, “What do you know about tea – nothing!”  To tease the great man, the taster had solemnly assured him that his favorite blend was the worst tea he’d ever tasted.  Mr. Morgan never forgot – but never caught on.  Perhaps no one else had ever twitted him.  His blend, which combines Formosa Oolong and certain black teas with a faint smokiness from Lapsang Souchong, was created for Mr. Morgan by Lester Vail of Simpson & Vail, a firm that has been an institution for New York tea lovers for almost a century.  The firm still sells J.P. Morgan tea, as does the Morgan Library.

Lady Londonderry ordered a particular blend of Ceylon, India and Formosa teas to be prepared for her by Jacksons of Piccadilly around 1900 about the time she was becoming London’s most famous political hostess.  Its popularity – and snob appeal – spread like her Ladyship’s fame, a good example which also explains Twinings Queen Mary tea and Prince of Wales tea, Fortum & Mason’s Duchess of Devonshire tea and similar relics, all of them interesting and many quite fine.

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