I was recently asked to write a review of one of the newest additions to the published tea literature, The Tea Drinker’s Handbook, published by Abbeville Press, which I gladly accepted. The book, collaboratively written by Francois-Xavier Delmas, Mathias Minet, and Christine Barbaste of Le Palais des Thes, is this expert team’s first foray into book publishing.

One of the first things I noticed upon removing the book from its packaging, was the distinct look and feel of it. It is immediately distinguishable by its unique shape and cover design. The book’s dimensions are 11.25″ by 6.5″, giving it a long, elegant look. And its simple matt pale yellow color with glossy highlights grabs your attention. You can see and feel the quality that went into producing this book. The paper used is a heavy stock that is clearly high quality, as are the printing and photographs. The pages are bound very tight and dense, further giving a weighty, high-end feel to the book.

Opening the cover allows you to see that the quality is not just restricted to the book’s construction. The authors have created one of the most fulfilling tea books I have had the pleasure of reading. Their expertise and depth of knowledge are evident throughout. Headings such as “The Ecology of Tea”,  “Economic and Social Aspects of the Tea Industry, “A Quick Chemistry Lesson”, “The Physiology of Taste”, and “How We Express Our Sensations” provide a glimpse of this highly readable, in-depth look into the inner workings of this most marvelous plant and its industry. This is a book for the serious tea aficionado as well as aspiring tea lovers. The authors provide a meaningful look into the world of tea that goes well beyond what you might expect. As a serious tea aficionado, and self-proclaimed nerd, I enjoy delving into the science and other minutiae of tea. This book delivers in a big way, daring to venture into nerddom with statements like:

“The fertility of the soil is measured by the amount of nutrient elements it holds available for the roots. Potassium, for example, which the plant draws from particles of clay and humus, reinforces its resistance to drought and disease and encourages photosynthesis. Magnesium, which is one of the basic components of chlorophyll, plays an important role in most of the tea plant’s vital functions. The lack of magnesium affects photosynthesis and therefore the crop yield. As to trace elements, though only absorbed by the plant in very small quantities, they still play an important role. Zinc, for example, is a factor in growth, and copper helps with the assimilation of potassium and nitrogen.”

Not all of their information, however, is completely up to date as this passage about caffeine reveals:

“We should clarify from the start that the different constituents of tea do not dissolve in water at the same rate: 80 percent of theine is released in the first minute of infusion, whereas some seven minutes are required for a similar percentage of tannins present in the dried leaf – …”.

This issue, regarding the rate of infusion of caffeine (they use the term for caffeine found in tea – “theine”), is one that we have discussed and debated numerous times in this blog. As we have all come to realize, there are long-held beliefs about the rate of solubility of caffeine in a cup of tea that have recently come to light, through the lens of research, as being inaccurate. All of us, including the experts, have defended and disseminated these myths as being the gospel truth. As we also have learned, some truths fall hard. This one, I believe, will not “go gently into this good night”. As books are typically published two years after inception, it is very possible that these authors are aware of this new information, but were not at the time of writing.

Ever wonder why some people can smell and/or taste things in tea that you can’t? You can learn about Anosmia and Aguesia right here in the pages of this book as well as a rich vocabulary of aromas and tastes to help you better distinguish what you can’t quite put your finger on when smelling and tasting your tea. If you want to expand your tasting skills for professional reasons or just for the sheer pleasure of it, this book will help you achieve that goal.

Of course, there is excellent information about the types of tea and the top tea growing areas of the world, along with details about the classic teas from those areas, in the form of tasting notes. In addition to also providing a wealth of information about what goes into the preparation and appreciation of tea, I particularly enjoyed the attention the authors paid to sharing their experience and advice about the variety of teapots and other vessels of tea preparation. They provide a rich background into the different types of vessels and preparation methods used in China and Japan as well as those used in Western countries like Britain.

All in all, reading this book was a very rewarding experience from the visual/tactile experience to the intellectual enrichment. I highly recommend it for anyone interested in more than a passing knowledge of tea as well as for those of you who need to find the perfect gift for that person in your life who is a true lover of tea.