Thursday January 8, 2009 | 8 comments
It was December 2000 and I was on a month-long trip to Europe and Africa. My trip started in London; from there I went to Barcelona, Spain. And right away I noticed that everyone was very chipper and happy, even though the weather outside was blistering cold. Another thing I quickly noticed was that everywhere I went, I found Spaniards standing in tight, little smoke-filled coffee shops sipping what looked to me like small shots of espresso. Turns out, it was their version of coffee. Since I am not a coffee person, I did not partake in their daily intake of caffeine-filled drinks. As I traveled further south to Madrid, I found that the look of the people changed, but their coffee consumption was the same. People were hustling and bustling throughout the city in a buzzed-like state of energy. People spoke very fast and their energy almost made my head spin from trying to keep up. Understanding their Spanish dialect was almost impossible. I speak fluent Spanish, being the son of Mexican parents. But I found it very difficult to understand them when they were going so fast. Apparently, they had no time to waste in their fast-paced lives. I continued to travel south to other cities like Salamanca and Granada, but it was more of the same. I finally reached Algeciras, which is on the Southern tip of the Iberian Peninsula, opposite the Strait of Gibraltar. Once again, the look of people changed slightly, but their daily intake of coffee was the same.
Then I took a ferry through the Strait to the town of Tangier in Morocco.
It was during Ramadan, which at the time I knew very little about. One of the things I learned was that they do not eat until sundown during this religious time of the year. I arrived cold, tired, and hungry and it was difficult to find anyone serving food at that time of the day. The first meal I had there was a lentil soup with a never-ending supply of bread. I was surprised when the person serving the meal started to pour a hot drink without asking. I assumed it would be coffee. It turned out to be green tea. Since I was cold, I drank my share of the warm fluids. It had a great “minty” flavor, which I found to be very sweet and soothing. I sat there until I had my fill and then went on to Marrakesh.
The next day I went to the Medina, which is where many travelers go to buy goods of all sorts. I noticed that even though the merchants were there to sell their goods, they had a very laid-back demeanor. Every café was smoke free and everyone was pouring tea into their cups. They also had a very specific way they poured it. They would set your cup down and raise the teapot up and away from the cup. At first, I thought they were going to spill hot fluids all over me. They said to me that this is the way the tea is poured and it is poured this way to give it “flavor”. Since there was a language barrier, I was bit perplexed. I tried to take a sip and was told by the server to wait and take my time, so that the true essence of the tea would come to life. I was pleasantly surprised because I had come from a place where everyone was in such a hurry. The server smiled at me and walked away. I sat there for an hour or so enjoying the sights of the snake charmers and all the hustlers trying to make ends meet. I enjoyed the slower paced life style. My time in this beautiful part of the world has drawn me back and I would go again in a heartbeat.
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What an interesting observation of cultures. It sounds like Medina is a gem. I love the ritual and ceremony of this high tea pouring city. I’ll be sure to include it in my journey to Morocco. Who would have thought that green tea was commonly served in Tangier – you’ve opened my eyes to new vistas. Thank you Cesar.
Cesar,
Thanks. I just forwarded your post to my friends who plan to visit Spain and Morocco this coming summer. During my one-week stay in Madrid many years ago, I noticed so many grandparents sauntering in the parks not only with their grandchildren but also their children; the environment was family-oriented and very pleasant.
Cesar,
I could relate to your posting for a multitude of reasons. I can recall my own trip to Central Spain where I encountered some sort of disillusionment at not understanding the dialect also. I became elated when I traveled further south and could understand a bit more. It was comprehensible how my own Cuban dialect evolved from Southern Spaniards. They tend to speak more similar to us. Finally, I didn’t have to say,”perdon” every third sentence. Also, the bit about drinking the coffee brought a smile to my face. I drink “Cuban Coffee” AKA- espresso socially a few times a year. Growing up, my non-Hispanic friends used to laugh at the tiny little cup, until it piqued their interest enough to indulge in a cup. One sip and they never made fun of me again. They couldn’t believe how strong it was!!
Anyway, I have enjoyed your post and this site, me being a tea drinker myself. You make Morocco sound so lovely and intoxicating. I would love to partake in the mint tea ritual there, but for now I will have to settle for the decadent Morrocan Tea Service at the Burgeouis Pig in Hollywood.
Wow Cesar,
I do drink coffe habitually in the morning, just two cups, gets me going. I felt the rush as I read the beginning of your blog, thinking, I hope I’m not hurried like the people you described. Then, when you described Medina, I felt calm. I drink green tea too. Your blog inspires me to try green tea instead of coffee in the morning. I will say though, coffee does keep you “regular”, if you get my drift…. thanks for that Cesar.. Good to find you again.
Cesar,
Thanks for sending me the link to this. Nice to finally read some of your writing. Good job! Also made me realize your boy is now 11. Wow. Hope father and son are doing well.
Cesar,
cool story, makes me want to go. i almost feel like i went with you.
maybe we’ll go togther, get a good hot cup of joe as we say here in the states
Cesar -
I’m curious as to whether the tea leaves continued to steep in the pot between cups, or were you just served by the cup? If by teapot, how were the subsequent cups of tea in terms of taste?
Hi Cesar. I enjoyed your passage. Europe and Africa…Wow! It’s great to know you visited such beautiful places. Makes me want to go someday. You inspire me to make myself some tea, sip, and relax. Your blog tells me how important it is to take a moment to retreat from my daily routine and just slow down. Thanks.