12.16.08
Yunnan - among the grandest of the world’s black teas
posted by James Norwood Pratt | 3 comments
Fourteenth in a series on the teas of China.
As a trans-Himalayan crow might fly, China’s Yunnan Province is just across the hills from Assam in India. This is the region where the tea species is thought to have originated and the similarities in taste and even appearance between the black teas native to Assam and Yunnan are interesting. For a variety of reasons, black tea production in Yunnan began only in 1939 - a century behind Assam - but already Yunnan produces more black tea than any other province in China. No tea is easier to recognize than Yunnan black. It alone is made from the Dayeh (broad-leafed) cultivar - unknown outside the region - which has distinctive fat leaf buds (tip) and thick, soft leaves. So tippy is this leaf that it is often khaki-colored, and the tea’s peppery flavor is similarly distinctive, with a character so assertive and rich a French tea man calls Yunnan “the mocha of tea.” Although recently developed, it already ranks with the grandest of the world’s black teas, what the same Frenchman is pleased to pronounce un Grand Seigneur. As a morning-time pleasure it is rarely to be equaled and never surpassed, and the craving for it may recur during the day, more especially if one has discovered that blondest and most beautiful of teas well-named Yunnan Gold. I shall say no more in its praise, omitting a great deal. Yunnan’s black tea is produced mainly in the southernmost part of the province around Menghai.
December 16th, 2008 at 10:03 am
I was just introduced to the Yunnan Golden Bud (Jin Ya) tea on our last trip to Chengdu. We visited the recently opened Southwest Tea Culture Town and while looking for teapots and such came across a seller specializing in Puerh and Yunnan Black. The Yunnan black tea we ended up buying was the Golden Bud. Wow, was it ever good. It is my choice of morning tea. We were led to believe that he more gold the better the tea. He also assured us that what we bought was the best.
I too am singing the praises of this wonderful black tea. In fact, we are making a trip to Chengdu this Friday to pick up some more. Thanks for the information.
December 16th, 2008 at 11:27 am
A truly wonderful black. The only black teas that rivals it are some of the golden blacks from Assam and Darjeeling blacks. With all of these black teas, I would have to agree with the French tea man that they have wonderful mocha as well as caramel flavors. I enjoy these teas anytime of the day for their rich brew. We currently have several select choices of these from Assam and Darjeeling in our store at the moment. My personal favorite is the Golden Lion’s Paw, with the Gold Medals from Assam and Darjeeling that were offered exclusively to dignitaries at the Olympics, running a close second.
December 20th, 2008 at 12:38 pm
Wow, just commented on this tea in the ‘aroma’ thread. A hearty ‘amen’ on all that has been said. It is more expensive than many, but well worth every penny. Enjoying one right now, a
lovely, strong, rich, full-bodied (words can’t describe really) Golden Yunnan. Today I actually broke the rules and put in a little Half and Half and one Equal (never use sugarfree but have to lose some lbs.). It is just incredible, even doctored like this.